Sewing a shirt from self-made patterns is simple when you have good instructions. With these instructions, you can also make a knitted tunic or t-shirt, for example. The shirt is relatively easy to sew yourself, and that is why it is the first exercise for many novice sewists. The most demanding point in the shirt sewing process is neck sewing, as the neckline usually needs to be slightly stretched and added extra stitches.
The turns of the sleeves and hem are easy and quick to sew by stitching straight fabric. In bra dresses, the challenge is the neckline and the armholes, as they are also curved. Novice may choose not to start with such a tank dress, even if it appears to be simple due to the lack of sleeves.
Choose the Right Size Formula
The sewing process begins with selecting the pattern size. When sewing children’s clothes, the pattern size is determined by the child’s height. In adult clothing, the pattern size is determined by the chest circumference. If you use formulas in formula sheets, the sheets usually have Dimension Tables to which you need to compare your measurements to make the formula the correct size.
Many formula sheets also have Measurement Tables on their website and, at the same time, instructions on how to measure the body to make the formula fit. Formulas are generally used for drawing the formula of paper, but instead can also be used, for example, waxed paper, baking paper, or other similar paper, through which the formula can draw.
If you are using a formula taken from a magazine, at the same time, look at the magazine’s miniature formulas to get an idea of what the formula looks like and what characters you should draw in the formula in addition to the outline. One pattern sheet usually has patterns for many different clothing sizes, making it challenging to figure out where the outline of your pattern goes.
To help you find the right formula, you should use the formula number, which is divided at the bottom of the formula sheet. The correct formula can be found above the number. Once you’ve found the right formula, you might want to reinforce the outlines with a pen or marker, for example, to make them easier to draw through the formula paper.
Add Annotations to Formulas
The formulas have their additional characters, the most important of which are Ls and Hakki. Ls stands for thread direction and is usually found in the center of the sleeve pattern and at the straight edge of the front and back pattern. The direction of the thread is essential so that the fabric descends beautifully, the patterns settle straight, and the seams do not twist. Generally, in finished garments, the direction of the thread should be parallel to the spine in the front and back and the middle of the arm on the sleeves.
Hakki, on the other hand, means a short diagonal line at the edge of the formula. Chips can be marked on the formulas with a colored marker, for example. Hacks are alignment marks that help, e.g.; the sleeve joins the armpit of the front piece. Chips are usually found on the sleeve wheels and the armpits of the front piece.
To ensure that the formulas are drawn correctly, you should also add names to the formula, i.e., whether it is a front piece, a back piece, or a sleeve. In addition, it is a good idea to mark the total number and any magazine and the number from which they came. In this way, the formulas can be easily reused, and all their parts can be found later.
Fit the Formula
The formulas are usually sized for the average body, so they may not be suitable for everyone. So it’s always good to check the formula’s size looks like compared to your clothes or body. Once the formula is drawn on paper, you can lift your shirt on it or compare it to your proportions in front of a mirror, for example. This is also important in children’s clothing, as their size determines the formulas, so there can be many throws depending on the child’s weight.
For example, if the pattern looks more significant than a child’s current clothing, you should note that it is, for example, one centimeter larger and then cut the fabric one centimeter more diminutive than the formula instructs. Matching patterns is an essential part of sewing clothes to make finished clothes successful. The formulas can still be edited at this stage,
This Is How You Draw Patterns and Cut Fabric
If you’re making clothes for a child, a good tip is to draw two pattern sizes side by side or nested on pattern paper. In this case, you already have the formula ready for the next garment when the child has grown out of a smaller size. It is possible to obtain formulas from many places. For example, there are many different printable formulas on the Internet. It is possible to buy craft magazines from the shops, and of course, the library has a vast selection of sewing magazines with different patterns.
It is not advisable to buy the fabric too little, but it is a good idea to set aside a seam allowance for children’s clothing for a length of about 5 cm and, in addition, a shrinkage margin for washing of about 5-10%. It is also good to reserve a seam allowance and shrinkage allowance for adults and young people. Sleeve lengths and shirt lengths should be considered separately in the measurement.
In children’s shirts, all parts can be cut side by side up to a size of 134 cm, but in larger sizes, the fabric should be cut separately by the length of the shirt and the length of the sleeve. In general, the width of the fabric rolls is 150 cm, which means that you can calculate whether the front piece, the back piece, and the two sleeves of the formula can fit in addition to the seam allowances and shrinkage allowances.
Necessary Sewing Tools and Preparations
The shirt is well sewn with a jersey needle, i.e., a ball-tipped needle with a size of 70. An ordinary pointed needle easily cuts the yarns of the knitted fabric, which results in holes starting to quickly enter the seam immediately during the first washes. Because the ball-pointed needle searches for a path between the fabric bond, the fabric remains intact when sewn.
Another option is to use a double-pointed ballpoint needle. It is perfect if the goal is to make the shirt look ready-made, as it is also used in ready-made garments made by the clothing industry. The twin needle sews two adjacent straight stitches, and a zigzag stitch appears on the wrong side.
Before sewing and cutting the fabric, it is worth washing. Clean the fabric in a same manner like you would your clothes. This way, the fabric is already shrunk before you start sewing. Prewash also removes tension and finishes from weaving. If the prewash is not done, the seams on the finished garment may start to twist. Sometimes the edges of knitted fabrics can roll in the wash, which makes them challenging to sew. This phenomenon can be prevented by folding the fabric half lengthwise and sewing the edges together before washing.
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